To this end I loaded up for the week.
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I'm packing some supplies for 6 riders, so I've got a bit of an excuse for looking like this inside the van. :eek1
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So let me tell you how this group knows each other, and gets together. First, being an oldster myself, I know geeser Tom1 from Cincinnati Ohio because of my upbringing as a neighbor of his way back. Tom's son Bruce is a player, also, as is his friend Ian who has transplanted to Co from Cinci. Then Tom1 (who's a marathoner) wanted to bring Tom2, who's just a kid at 49 and another marathoner, to show him Baja. Lastly there is my buddy Mike, early 40s, from LA who hasn't been on his DRZ400 in the last year due to a pesky job.
We've been doing a Baja trip during this race for a few years now. The planning had been a little cumbersome, but now that we were under way, the wait had been worth it.
So we have 3 from Cinci, one from Co, near Denver, and 2 Calif guys. Ian has 2 DRZ400 so, Bruce flies into Vegas, cause he likes Vegas, and Ian picks him up with his two DRZs in his PU. They drive to Westmorland, near Mexicali and leave the truck at Steve Horvath's house, then Ride the 2 bikes to San Felipe, Baja.
The 2 Toms fly into LA where Tom1 has 2 Honda NX250s stored at a friends house. I agreed to pick them up there with my Baja rig, load the bikes on a borrowed trailer....like so, and meet Ian and Bruce on the 12th of November in SF, Baja.
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The 6th rider, Mike, will drive down on the 16th Nov with his DRZ in the back of his Nisson PU. Remember, the pesky job thing limits his time to one day riding before the race, then race day, and a 350 mile return trip back to LA.
This may sound awfully complicated, but it was simplified by simply agreeing to meet at 'Pete's Camp' just a few miles north of SF BC on the 12th. Pete's has camping on the beach and a bar and restaurant. It's perfect for a collection point.....not that there aren't a dozen other meetup prospects. Oh, yeah, and Pete's Camp has Wifi to stay connected.
Our plan was to be in Baja from the 12th to the 19th. We'd ride around till race day, then Watch the race on the 18th, and get the Toms back to the Airport in LA on Sunday the 20th.
The riding around part was unspecified. That would be a first order of business once the whole group congealed at Pete's.
I made the pick up of the 2 Toms at John Wayne Airport at 12:30pm on the 11th. We loaded the bikes from the friends house in Lakewood and hit the road after a late lunch by 2:30.
I didn't know the second Tom, but was delighted to find that he was internationally known, [URL="http://www.enquirer.com/editions/2003/02/16/spt_iditarod16.html"]Tom Possert[/URL], an ultramarthoner. I learned a lot of what goes thru a distance runners mind from Tom2.
We settled in for the long haul to SF BC.....even though we'd stop at Slab City of the Salton Sea for the night. We weren't pressed for time so we avoided driving at night by making the trip a 2 dayer. Besides another visit to Slab City is always interesting.
HWY91...fleeing the big city
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The sky clears as we approach Palm Springs.
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We ran out of daylight near Indio with 50 miles of darkness ahead. I thought checking the trailer lights was in order....NERT. No tail lights. After some connector wiggling, I had one brake and tail Light. I figured that would get me to camp....and it did.
After arrive at camp we made a hasty camp....It's wasn't even 7pm. Sheesh, with DST it's dark at 5pm. I think we drank some wine and and got acquainted till 8pm before we crapped out. The adventure would start in earnest, in the morning.
Slab City is an old Military base that is nothing more that the slab foundations of 50 or so ex-buildings. It apparently is BLM land and folks are allowed to camp there for free for as long as they want. There are a dozen or so permanent folks there in camper, trailer, or mtr homes, or tents.
......but during the 'snow bird' season there are hundreds of seasonal mtr homes there for the winter. There's an active rail road within a couple miles that provide some transportation for some folks.
Here is a pictorial of Slab City once the sun came up.
Tom2's morning shot
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A lot of these Pictures are Tom2's
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Other occupants and stuff...........
Snowbirds
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Permanent party
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Creative landscaping
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One of the most interesting scenes there is a thing called Salvation Mountain. It's a compilation of a hay bail and scrap edifice glued together with exterior paint. Pretty cool from some prospectives.
Salvation Mountain
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After the Salvation Mtn tour it was time to take on fuel...the human kind. As we walked trru the parking lot a group of camo attired men stood around kicking sand. "What's up boys," I asked. They said they were waiting for a tow truck to pick up their new Diesel which wouldn't run. I felt better about my old van. :freaky
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Inside...
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Tom1 left, Tom2 right
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My new best friend, Tom2, and yours truly
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Food wise, Niland had just what we needed.
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We next went to Calexico to get some insurance and gas up for the 125 miles to SF. As I waited I saw a low tire on the trailer. A quick pump job fixed us right up.
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Meetup in the Rain
So we crossed the border at downtown Mexicali, VS the new border crossing about 7 miles east of town. Changing the driving mind set to Mx border traffic is a hoot.
I drive steady with few lane changes if I can manage that. I don't do anything stupid and count mostly on them having plenty of time to miss me. This day there was a major detour downtown that had me zigzagging into the oncoming lanes of traffic. So much for no lane changes. :huh
Then you have to deal with 3 lane traffic circles, and get out of the circle at the right moment. It made the trip across town to the south very interesting....but no fun lasts forever, eh.
Soon we are into the city free Rio Hardy area, relaxing begins. The Toms are settling down, one in back and one riding shotgun.
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As we rode along, I imagined where we would be riding for the few days before the race. For one, we had four active 40 to 50 year olds, and 2 geezer. Finding routes that are interesting to everyone can be tough.
I've been over 80 percent of northern Baja multiple times in the 50 years I've spent going to Baja. Two places I've not been are: 1. a waterfall near the base of the Diablo Mtn 40 miles Northwest of SF, and 2. I've not been thru Matome wash. Maybe this trip I'd bag one of those locations.
We clear the Rio Hardy and began the salt flats, moon like, lands to the south.
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I know lots of you have seen this area, but to the noobs around here, this might be a first time.....besides its always remarkable. :freaky
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One of Baja's Chapalitas that protects traveler on the road.
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Looking back shows the bikes are behaving. BTW, there's lots of new black pavement on the way to SF. No lines yet.....no problem in the daytime.
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Somewhere around noon we arrived a Pete's Camp. $15 a night was acceptable for 3 guys. We sign up for a couple nights. The place wasn't busy as I had suspected that it would be. I figured we were too early, but as it turned out there were never more that 10 camp spaces occupied. Hummm.....? Bad economy and border fear is doing a job on tourism.
Camp was easily set up....here's all my Pete's camp shots at one time....morning, night, and mid day. Pete's has a nice beach with water only 30 yards from the campers at high tide. At low tide it's an1/8 mile away.
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My DR350 awaits some action. It's been a while, at least 6 months.
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Even a beautiful view from the throne.... :clap
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The NXs hadn't been run for a while so we fired up all the bikes and rode out to the main hwy...about a half mile. Tom1 turn his bike off out at the road to check something. It wouldn't start, no starter. We looked for loose battery cables and such. Finally Tom2 pushed the bike back to camp with his foot on Tom1's bike while riding his. Near camp there is a hill that Tom1 tried a bump start with. The bike ran good after that.
Go figure.....or bikes are funny that way. take your pick :norton
Among the delight of the afternoon was when Kay showed up. He and his girlfriend live above where we camped. Kay had recognized my Camo Van and came down to say hello. He said he'd show us where that waterfall is that I was wondering about. We decided to make a days ride out of it
Time moved along. It was Saturday, and it was supposed to rain that night. My sleeping bag was layed out with a plastic drop cloth over it. We went up to the restaurant for some beverages at around dusk. Bruce and Ian wouldn't leave Westmorland till 3:30 after having driven from Vegas already. They weren't due at Pete's till 7pm.
At Pete's we were in for a rare treat. They had cable TV and the Pacquiao/Marquez Fight was showing at about 8pm....for free. Sheech, I never get to see a good fight....that doesn't feature my wife. :rofl
Anyway we wified for a while and ate dinner while waiting for the boys and the fight. These two photo worthy cars showed up about dark time for dinner and the fight.
I have VWs in my blood form years past. Check my sig line if you doubt me. :lol3
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and this little roadster...
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It started to rain about 6pm. The roadster driver ladies didn't come out till the fight was over at 9pm. Can you say wet butt ride home?
Ian and Bruce gassed the bikes at the Pemex (Mex Federal gas) of last resort on the south side of Mexicali.....as they went to leave Bruce had a front flat. Bruce can find a flat when there is no where for one to appear.
I'm not shitting you. Bruce has had 5 flats in Baja in just a few thousand miles down there. They had a spare tube and were underway a half hour later. As they again started south the rain hit, and rain steadily all the way to Pete's.
The new black, unlined, rainy roads were a test. In oncoming traffic lights, telling where they were relative to traffic or the roads edge was impossible.
In spite of the element conspiring against them the boy arrived safely, but pretty well soaked. They ate dinner and we watched the fights till 9ish. Great fight, BTW.
Soon we all walked home to the camp.
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It wasn't raining in that bicture, but it was still raining at camp. I found that some of my drop cloth had blown back and the top quarter of my sleeping bag was at least 1/2 soaked.
Crap, I just climbed into the bag an made the best of it. I slept pretty well, and in the morning all the bad weather was gone.
Today would be a ride across the Diablo [COLOR="Red"]DRY[/COLOR] Lake.....er I wondered about that rain though....is dry a good word here?
The Waterfall
I was glad to get out of the wet sleeping bag. The sky was clear. It looked like a good day to dry the bag. I stretched it on on the back of my trailer so the wettest side faced the sun. There, I fixed it.
Our plan was to eat in cafes rather than cook for the six of us, although T1 and I both heated some coffee water. We all went to Pete's cafe at opening time, 7am.
Rice, bean and 2 breakfast burrito for me, and similar combination for the rest....er, all but T2, the ultra marathoner.
Tom2 proved to be a wealth of healthy eating tips. He stuck with rice, beans, cheese and tortillas. He did try a fish taco as he'd never had one. Can you imagine that? A 49 year old guy that has been around the world several time never having a fish taco. It takes all kinds. :freaky
We'd made arrangements with Kay to be ready to ride at 9am. Now let me say a little about Kay. He came from Egypt to race bikes in the desert. It took him the biggest part of a decade to Find San Felipe. Once there he never left. He found Marsha, his girl friend, and the rest is history.
Anyway I've known him for a couple years through ADVRider.com during the SF 250 races. He's making a business out of helping out bikers in the area. He also teams up with riders to share expenses and race the Baja races....and he runs tours in the area.
If anyone is interested in getting their feet wet in a Baja Race get ahold of him at.... [url]www.mobilekay.com[/url] or at 686 167 4749. He'll supply an XR650 and his knowledge. There is no cheaper way to try your hand at racing. I'm not affiliated with Kay other than being a friend.
Kay showed up at 9am, and we planned the days ride. SF is on the sea shore, of course, and there is a 25 X 100 mile low plains west of town. It is bordered on the west side by the San Pedro Martir Mtn range. The Highest peak in that range is Diablo peak at 10000+ ft. In fact, the Mexicans have an observatory up there that is accessible from the Pacific side....but that's another story.
We decided to ride across the Diablo Dry lake to a canyon coming out of those Mtn, and take a 1/2 mile walk up to the waterfall. Tom1 (short leg) was worried about sand riding. Actually I was too. Kay said there was no more than a 1'4 mile of soft sand. Yeah, right. :rofl
When the sand doesn't bother you, it not easy to remember where all the sand is. There was at least 3 or 4 miles of the stuff. Kay was also worried that last night's rain would make a mess out of the dry lake. We'd just have to go see. That's what riding is all about in the big Baja.
We gassed up and hit Zoo Road, so named because it's like a crazy zoo out there where the race course crosses it during races. It's a graded road for 13 miles where it connects to the race course going south. We needed to take that road north to the dry lake, then midway across the dry lake we'd head to the mtn canyon.
We got into soft sand soon after leaving Zoo Road. It wasn't long...like maybe a 1/4 mile and T1 went down. The bike was laying on his leg and he was on his stomach. I'm sure we all recognize this position. :evil It's not bad unless the exhaust is laying on said leg. You're really pretty helpless till someone gets there to lift the bike.
It was only 15 seconds till the bike was lifted by Bruce. All in all I think T1 went down 3 more times in that sand before the dry lake. You can see evidence.
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Finally a lowering of air pressure made the bike ridable and we moved on to the the dry lake. Sands not too bad right here, but...
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Gathering the troups and enjoying the sights.
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We're nearly 25 miles out of Pete's. There is nothing out here, and you expect not to find squat till you reached San Matias Pass 30 miles away.
Well, you'd be wrong. We came upon a driveway with a sign advertising Gas, Beer, and Soda. What a surprise....we had to partake and support this Mexican 7/11 look alike. That's a hand painted sign....good job. That's Kay on the left, T2 on the right. Note the runner's long legs. He had no problem keeping the bike up in tough places.
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We're still at the 7/11 kicking sand on the edge of Diablo DL. We are headed to that canyon on the left of the picture.
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This buggy was prerunning the course and stopped to take a break. He also was sorting out a cooling fan that wasn't running. We moved on.....
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Our course took us out toward the middle of the dry lake. we stayed out of the track because water collects there, and rode on the light color dryer lake bed. Occasionally we'd break through and start picking up clay on our tires.
That's not so bad unless you have a low fender like a street bike. The NXs have a low fender, and wouldn't you know it, Tom1s fender got jammed with mud till the wheel wouldn't turn. Splat went T1 a couple more times.
Tom1 was demoralized. His leg was burned, he'd twisted an ankle, and pulled something behind his left knee. He wanted no more of this falling down shit. :cry
It took us 15 minutes to get him to believe that once we gained a foot of altitude all would be well. We got away from the mud.
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Soon though we took a break out there. We'd taken a wrong trail and were having to bushwhack a mile or so to get back on track.
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Here's the results of falling in the mud flats. We all got a kick out of this...T1, not so much. :clap
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Another half hour had us locking up the bikes and trudging off to the waterfall.
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We were ready to be off the bikes for a while....
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Looking back at the dry lake
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Be careful out there....still it's kinda pretty.
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T1 models the rugged outdoor look as he sits beside a small water reservoir.
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Ian made it farther that the rest of us....no waterfall. Oh well, it was spectacular up there.
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I'd tangled with some bushes con steekers. My aspirin regimine makes it look like I'm hurt. T1 want to take me to the hospital. :rofl
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Kay looking like an outdoor poster boy.
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Bruce is stealing some thunder from that gnarly old tree in that cliff scene.
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Father and son....does anyone other than me wonder about the dissimilarity. Hummmm.... All kidding aside, these 2 guys really enjoy doing things together.
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Walking in the Canyon was difficult, but worth it. We soon started back to the bikes and Pete's camp.
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We found a better route back that avoided all the sticky mud, and I don't think anyone fell in the sand. We took a break here. I looked at the sky and dreaded the idea of another wet sleeping bag night as I thought of my bag drying out in the open.
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At one point in the sand on the way back I got the nerve to stand on the pegs and get my ass back as far as posible, and nail the throttle. That's how you're supposed to do it.
It worked, but I passed everyone who had stopped off to the side. I was so concentrated on what I was doing that I didn't know I'd passed them. Luckily, I thought one guy was behind me so I stopped to wait for him to make sure he hadn't fallen in the sand.
Imagine my surprise when everyone came from behind. I could have been riding like the wind trying to catch everyone. I have done that before. Getting disconnected like that can really be a problem.
We got back to camp in the dry. The rain clouds stayed in the Mtns and my now dry sleeping bag was a delight. :clap:clap
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It had been a great day of riding ....even T1 had a good time, but he was wary of us all from that point on. Tom had a marathon to run in Cincinnati the next week. He was wanting to qualify for the Boston Marathon at the Cinci one.
Let me take a moment to thank Kay for showing us around. We'll ride again, Kay. :freaky
We spent the evening at Pete's having dinner, and deciding to make a run to Gonzaga Bay the next day. Bruce and Ian wanted to make the big circle, Gonzaga, Coco's, San Quintin, Mike Sky Ranch and back to SF. T1 was not so sure he'd do the whole circuit as the 15 miles into Mike Sky Ranch, is known to be a bitch.
The Gonzaga Episode
Although my bag was dry, the night wasn't perfect. My air mattress went flat overnight. Crap.
Here's a tip to find a leak in an air mat. Put a half cup of water inside. With it inflated and rotating it the water will leak and there's the hole. I did that and patched the hole with a tire patch. Should be good to go when I get back from Gonzaga.
We oiled up the bikes and checked them out for the extended trip. Some of us didn't want to make the whole circuit, and thought we might come back to SF from Gonzaga while Bruce and Ian made the full circuit. We'd play it by ear.
The trip to Gonzaga is 110 miles with pavement, now, to within 15 miles from Gonzaga. It should be an easy ride. Both NXs were short on tire tread in the rear. They should make it though....that's easy to say when I wasn't riding one of them. :evil
After another fine breakfast at Pete's we hit the road at around 9:30am. Our first fuckup occured after looking at 2 bike shops for a rear tire. The NXs have 16" rears which no one stocks in a dirt tread.
We gave up on the tire idea, and agreed to stop at the Pemex on the way out of town for gas. Bruce, Ian, and I stopped at the station, and the 2 Toms went flying right on by. We didn't actually see them go by, but they were right behind us, and somehow they didn't show at the Pemex. What the Hell? Where did they go.
We waited and waited...seemed like a long time. Finally they came back. We were together again, and soon headed south. We have friends at Campo El Vergel 30 miles out of town so we stopped in to visit with OMB. 'Old Man Bud' will be 92 on Xmas day this year. Here's a couple pictures from his home on the bluff.
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This is million dollar property in Ca....costs them a $1000 per year down there.
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Bud's middle son Ed and wife Nora were there and told us that Bud and Peg would be there Wed. Today was Monday. We'd make a return trip later probably.
Bud's place was one of the original houses at El Vergel. There is a small town on the hwy at the camp turnoff. There are a couple stores, three or four restaurant, and a clinic with a competent doctor for the basics. They've come a long way, baby. Down right civilized.
We planned to stop for a soda at the Cowpaddy tavern 5 miles short of Puertocitos. I was running sweep. I saw that Bruce and Ian pulled in way ahead. I imagined that the Toms wouldn't notice, so I sped up and just as we approach the Cowpaddy drive, I made the pass and then hit the break hard and pulled in
Sure enough, it save me from having to chase the Toms and get them back to the Cowpaddy. But that hard braking maneuver off the highway didn't feel right. Crap, I had a front flat.....and to compound the situation the CP was closed. Double crap.
We grabbed a junk stand and propped the bike up.
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Ian carries an extensive repair kit, and I had a 19" tube for my 19" front wheel. Ian and Bruce were on that tire like a duck on a June bug, with T1 giving approval, and offering tips.
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Two things...I have 2 rim locks on that front wheel which is why I didn't feel the flat tire. That was the good part. The bad part was that the hole in the tube was caused by one of the rim locks. It was a light duty tube. I bet a heavy duty tube wouldn't have failed.
A creative paint job transforms a simple washing machine into a cow...as in Cowpaddy.
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After the tire was fixed we went into Puertocitos. This is the greatest little bay, maybe in all of Baja. It completely empties out all the way to that point at high tide.
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There are hots springs and cemented pools on the ocean side of that point as well. What a great place.
We moved on southward, down the coast......
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Bruce.....
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Ian...giving a good example in totale gear
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Tom1 was looking better as his mud was wearing off.
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There is the DR350 making me look good...or as well as I can look.
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Gonzaga is as far away as you can see in this picture.
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Christina is a beautiful little cove some 5 miles south of Puertocito. That white house was listed on the internet for $400000 a year ago.
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On the way once we were on the dirt road, my DR crapped out. It felt just like it did a day earlier when I'd forgot to turn the fuel on. Crap, well lets check if there any fuel in the float bowl. Tom1 came back to see where I was.
Draining the float bowl showed it was empty. there must be somethong in the float needle. I turn the petcock off ( I have an on off petcock) and took the fuel line off the petcock. A quick suck on the fuel line cleared the needle of a piece of silicone gasket material. Cool.
We had passed 3 buggies taking a break a couple miles back. They stopped to ask if we needed help as they were traveling toward Gonzaga. I waved them on. Nice of them to ask, though. That's typical in Baja.
After we got underway, there were the three buggies stopped in the road a few miles further. I stopped to say thanks and did they need help. They didn't look so good. One rear wheels suspension was broken and further inspection showed a huge oil leak under that VW buggie. They had big problems....the good was that they were only a few miles from their destination. I left them to sort out their predicament.
5 miles later we pulled into Gonzaga's gas station at what is now Rancho Grande. There's gas, a market, and cafe there as well as a tire shop. I wanted to get my bad tube patched there, but when I looked for it, it was gone. It had shaken loose from my back rack on the washboard road. That was a rookie mistake. Now I had no backup tube to handle any future tire problem.
Motorcycle tubes are non existent in the outback of Baja. I wished that I'd packed it better. After fueling we all drove the couple miles to Alfoncia's. Alfoncia's is the destination of choice at Gonzaga Bay. There is also Papa Fernandes camp on the north end of the bay and Punta Final on the south end, but Alfancia's is the preferred destination.
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Alfancia's is a beach front with 50 or so residences and a cafe with motel at the north end...also there is an airstrip right behind all the houses. We signed up for 2 rooms for the night and ordered their all you can eat fish taco lunch....and somethings to drink. Bruce, Ian and I had beer. That set the tone.
All you can eat...as good as it get....beer very cold. Probably 3pm by then
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As we sat there eating and drinking attention was brought to the 20 ft long sharks swimming close to shore. I've been here a dozen time over the years and never knew that whale sharks frequented this bay in the fall. There were a half dozen of them cruising to within 50 yards of the shore. Almost like pets. :D
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One beer led to another....
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the beer began to talk as Ian and Bruce started talking up the complete circuit for the next two days riding.
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T1 was resisting as he worried about his rear tire, and he was concerned about the upcoming marathon and didn't want to bang up his legs any worse. In fact Tom1 said he wasn't doing the circuit. He and Tom2 would go back to San felipe tomorrow and the three DRs would make the circuit.
A few shots of tequila was added to the beer. We moved inside as the sun settled on Alfoncia's. Dave and Mike joined us for the evening..Dave, middle, Mike, right....Mike isn't near as goofy as that picture shows. Sorry, Mike.
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Dave and Mike were there in a pickup but are trials bike rider. We all kept working on Tom1 to make the circuit with us. Bruce and Ian assured Tom1 that they'd riding his bike up any thing tough. Dave kept telling the Toms that their rear tires would never make it.
Tom1 was being pulled many dirrections vs tomorrow's ride. :rofl
Bruce move over to the poker table with Ryan and his buddy (jet skiers)...notice that tequila bottle. We lowered the level somewhat. All in all a harmless good time ended up at around 10pm.
A few more Gonzaga pictures... Papa Fernandez just across the bay, a five, or more, mile drive.
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Early morn...
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Destination San Quintin
We all got up at the dawn's crack. Coffee was on the table by 7am. Soon after the kitchen open, and breakfast was served. All the while Bruce was working on his dad to make the circuit with us. T1 was weakening. Finally he accepted the inevitable and agreed to keep the group together. We figured that San Quintin would be a good destination for the night. We'd shoot for the 'Old Mill' motel for the night.
We left by 9am. It's 25 miles of crappy, rocky 2 lane gravel out to Coco's Corner. It one of the least impressive piece of road in Baja, for my money.
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The 2 Toms and I took a break for some reason..
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We were lucky, Coco was in the house. Coco greeted me with a, "Hi, old man". Coco is a double leg amputee below the knee. He's happily working on a leather knee pad. Nothing get's Coco down. T2 get's acquainted.....
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Coco like the ladies....shown by his interior decoration.
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Coco sells beer and sodas and some food. He somehow keeps a tidy compound. All that area is there for free camping.
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Beer and soda cans play a big part of the motif at Coco's.
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Baja humor....
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We drank a soda and signed his guest book then moved on to the junction at Chapala Lake. That's a good tire shop over there.
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We took the right turn. It was already noon.
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40 miles of pavement had us at Catavina. We gassed at the pickup truck that sell gas by the side of the road. We were entertained by a gringo bum. I'm guessing he was in his early fifties. He non-stop told us that he invented Pepsi and Coco Cola, and the parachute. When they first tested the chute he was in a plane with Marlin Monroe, and she wouldn't make the jump so he did it. He also wrote songs for Elvis and Kate Smith. Scheeh...I should have a line like that. :norton
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We also had lunch there...
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That's the remnant of one of the original Pemex stations that went in when the paved road opened up in about '72.
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We picked up a Mexican rider on that Dakar. He was riding up from La Paz to watch the race. We welcomed him to our group. The BMW gave us a little class. :rofl
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It was 2:30 by the time we left Catavina. It was 75 miles to El Rosario and another 50 to San Quintin. We wanted to get there before dark.
When we left Catavina we rode thru the Baja Boojum tree forest.
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These trees are indigenous to Baja California.
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I'd geared my spockets down a bit for this trip. 55mph had me tacking 6000rpm. I requested a 55 cruise speed from our lead rider, Bruce. I never could quite figure out that at times he had me tacking 8000rpm to keep up. Damned kids. But we made it to S Q before dark.
We spotted the Old Mill motel sign and made the turn a 5PM. I'd been there 30 years ago, but with the growth in the area I'd never been able to find it. Bruce took us right to it.
The Old Mill Motel had suffered from the negative economy and was closed down. That's a shame as the Old Mill Motel was part of the history of San Quintin when it was an active sea port for the area.
Around the corner a mile away we went to the El Jardin Motel (I think). Wow, this place was 5 star for Mexico. Look at the pictures of this place.
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There was a sports bar/restaurant in the next block for dinner. We were shitting in mighty tall cotton. I wasn't used to that when I travel Baja.
Mike's Sky Ranch
We rolled out early from El Jardin. Mike Daugherty was driving down from LA today, and going to meet us all at Pete's Camp tonight. Mike is holding down a job, and can only steal a few days here and there.
At any rate, we intended to make the trip across Baja through Mike Sky Ranch, and be at Pete's before dark. We blew out of the Motel at 7:30, and Bruce found us a place to have breakfast some 15 miles up the road.
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We were all pretty happy to let the sun warm things up as we took on sustenance. It was maybe 65 degrees when we hit to road again. 25 miles later we had made the turn on the Mike's Sky Ranch/ Observatory road.
In the early days, '50 and '60, this road was known as the way into Melling Sky Ranch which is a working guest ranch still today. Somewhere along in there an observatory was built 20 miles past Melling on the Diablo Peaks of the San Pedro Martir Range at above 10000 ft. Now-a-days it's a paved road with only the last ten miles to the observatory being gravel.
We took a piss break soon after the turn. Luckily that fence wasn't electric.
:evil
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The road to the MSR turnoff is 35 miles of narrow, but still 2 lane, delightful, twistie pavement. It was fun, and we took a few opportunities to get photos along the way.
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I love this Panorama.....BTW, 'Windows Live' by Microsoft makes stitching photos like this easy.
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Did I mention that the weather was beautiful?
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Dirt bikes in the twisties are a special treat. Their lightness makes getting after it in the corners much fun.
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Finally we arivived at the turnoff to MSR. This was the way you got to Mike's in the beginning back in the early '70. After they put the road in from the Valle Trinidad side this road has been neglected. It was still used by 4 wheeled trucks into the '80, but has been completely abandon of any repair since then. It's only 15 miles so how bad can it be?
The road is up and down 50 to 200 foot elevation changes and runs 3 of those miles in a creek bed. the rain each season washes out any semblance of a roadway in the creek, and makes the climbs a morass of ruts and exposed rocks.
It's pretty bad. I'd been thru there on my DR with Ian and Bruce some 4 or so years ago, and I swore that I'd never try it again. Kinda funny how that resolve erodes with time.
Tom was apprehensive to the max as well. This is where the 'let someone else ride it up' was going to take place.
It didn't start out to bad.
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The road narrowed up a bit after Rancho El Coyote.
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Rutted downhill into that canyon bottom
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Kinda pretty down there....
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But further on we experienced one of the many washout. Note the use of legs in this Video. Bruce is first, no problem. Short legs T1 is second on one of the NXs, no legs to spare. Ian cleans it with no problem as well. Then T2 rides through on the other NX with about a foot of extra legs. Click on Pic for Vid
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This was one of the rocky climbs of the day. T1 made them all, to his credit. He had learned that stopping before he fell and regrouping was the best approach.
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Our smaller bikes made this ride simply challenging. Bigger bikes would really struggle.....all depending on the rider skill level, of course.
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Finally we got to Mikes at 12:30
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Not too bad for the middle of BFE, (nowhere). There are about 20 rooms to rent as well, plus a bar, and meals are served if you sign up for a meal.
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We met Mike Jr who has been in charge since senior pasted away 10 years ago. I raced cars back when his dad was racing the 'Baja', but I'd never met Mike Jr. It surprised the shit out of me when I found him to be a geezer like me. :rofl
We had a beer with Mike, and then rolled out toward Valle De Trinidad. We had visions of tacos dancing in our heads.
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The 25 miles to VT was easy and we made good time.
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We had 14 cheese and beef tacos and a few sodas at The racer's choice taco stand. There were a crowd of pre-runners in there.
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T2 gets the lowdown from one of them....that's at least a $50000 car.
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Our bikes waited patiently
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The youngest pre-runner. Mom told me she was going to be a driver. :freaky
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It was 2:30 by the time we left VT. 70 miles of Pavement lay between us and camp. We easily accomplished that before dark. All was well at camp. As dark set in I went up to the cafe to catch up on the internet with my Netbook.
Mike pulled in at about 6pm. A lot of stars had all aligned themselves for this smooth connection to be completed. Mike went on down and pitch his tent with us, then they all came up for dinner.
After dinner the boys went downtown for a little levity. The Tom1 and I were happy to take it easy in camp and get a good night sleep. Tom2 interneted till they closed.
Grrrr....my air mat still had a leak and was flat by midnight. That was a mighty small dark cloud in the past week of glorious days and fine riding.
Today was Wed. We had one more day of riding and then the race would be on Friday. I had no idea what lay ahead tomorrow.....would my luck hold?
Last Day in the Sand
We had one more day to ride before race day. I was happy to be out of bed as my Air mat patch had failed. :pissed What's up with that?
After breakfast the Toms decided to skip today's ride. So Bruce Ian, Mike and I gassed up and headed out south of town. We weren't looking for sand, but in that area there isn't a lot of choice.
This was kinda a day for Mike. He hadn't been out in the dirt for a year....and Bruce was itching to get out on the course to test himself a bit. Ian is less competitive than Bruce, but no less competent. I don't know what I was doing out there, but I couldn't resist another ride with the boys.
I started out leading, as I knew where the back country started. Once I got us into the sand and pretty much out of town, Ian, with the GPS, took the lead. I'd got us started about 5 miles south of town headed west toward the Mtns just south of the first hills that you come to.
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We soon got into the whoops and soft sand of a former Baja race. Mike dumped his bike a couple times before he let some air out, and got his sand legs back under himself. After that I was pretty much the trailing rider. :puke1
We headed toward the current race course. Ian's GPS showed a little side wash that would get us out of the deep sand and cut some distance off of getting to the race course.
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We rode this wash a couple miles. The GPS said the race course was just a hundred yards the other side of these rocks. Oh, crap.....
Bruce confirms it's a 'no go'.
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Well we take a little break before reversing in that wash.... Bruce reiterates the idea that we could race the Baja in an over 40s class. I laugh....and lead the conversation somewhere else. :freaky
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Mike leads us back to a trail leading around that dead end....
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Unless you've ridden sand you've no idea how much energy it uses up. We'd only been out there a half hour and I was tiring. I think I'd already had to pick my bike up once. Eventually we got to the race course. The route was a huge wash that was really chewed up sand making miles of whoops, and what wasn't whoops was deep, soft sand with many tracks diagonaling the road. That made riding across those diagonals a bitch.
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I didn't get any pictures because when you're in that stuff you don't want to stop. I should have stopped for pics just so I could show you.
The stronger you are the easier it is to go faster. That keeps momentum on your side and keeps you going straight. The slower you go the more in and out of every 2' deep whoop you go. That's how I ride. :cry
It took another hr and a half to get out of there for me. The boys were at least a half hour ahead of me, and they could have been further ahead. But when we eventually hit the pave road it was at the entrance of Camp Percebu. That was good news. Percebu had a cafe......and Beer. :clap:clap
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We had fish tacos and some drinks. Norman runs the place...he's 55ish, and a picture of browned, gringo health. Norman scooped up one of the Percebu daughters back in the '80 and has been living the Expatriate life ever since. He had a very interesting story. He may be the guy in the Corona commercials on TV. :lol3
BTW, this is how you build a palapa.....nice job!
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The beach behind me invites us for a ride. Just a little more soft sand, right? But the beach is much easier to ride, no whoops or cross diagonals.
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We even up with Norman and head down the beach. We're headed to Old Man Buds place who we missed visiting with last Monday.
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We pass Santa Maria...Buds place is only a few more miles.
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A shrimp boat sits just off shore. Our destination is that lighthouse in the distance....er....maybe you can't see it.
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Soon we were at Bud's place. Actually I don't know who's place it is. Bud was there with his three son's and wives. I think it a family affair.
Remember this place...from Bud's patio???
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It's always good to see Bud and wife Peg. Chips and beers were served, catching up was done, and son Raymond showed us his new Buggy. Raymond has his own house just across the road a 150' feet away.
Nice job on this buggy.
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All good things must come to an end as evening approached. We said goodby, and hit the paved road back to Pete's Camp. It was a 40 minute ride. The sun was over the Mtn in the west leaving us with some beautiful twilight cloud scenes.
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And toward the beach...
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We topped off the night with dinner at Pete's and busied ourselves with preparing camp for an early departure in the Morning.
We had decided to watch the race at a place known as Borego some 35 miles to the north. It looked like Borego was 195 miles from the starting line, and the first bikes would be there at about 10am. We didn't want to miss the first bike.
Mike had come a long way for just one day of riding, but for him it was more about getting away from LA for a few days to recharge his battery.
Race Day and One More...
Everyone was up early in anticipation of race day. We all wanted to see the first bikes go by, but the big anticipation is for the Trophy Trucks. The roar and the wheels going in all different directions all at once is spectacular. Most of them have nearly, can you believe, 3 ft of wheel travel.
My Karman Gorilla had 1' of wheel travel...and that was a lot back in the early '80s. They've come a long way in the last 15 years.
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We breakfasted up one last time at Pete's, then went out to the Pemex station for fuel, and to get some supplies for an overnight at Borego after the racers all went through. Did you know that you can't buy beer before 10am in Baja.....I didn't. Grrrrr!
Then it was north and west 10 miles on the road to Ensenada to Borego where the race course crossed the road. That was easy access to viewing a 1/2 mile of racing from a fifty ft hill, which provided a great view of a jump.
Of course everyone else knew this was a good place to watch the race so it was crowded, but still entertaining.
We spent a 1/2 hr at the drug checkpoint, but we were still early at a little before 10 when we pulled off the road at Borego.
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It doesn't look busy here in this picture...kinda peaceful and all.
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Mike was there in his Nizmo. Damn, those are nice trucks. He has 200000 on that one, and it's still operating like a new one. He put that on in 5 years while my old Dodge has little over 100000 on it in its 40 year lifespan.
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The crowd begins to grow. We set chairs up where this pic was taken, and there's a small jump off to the left. What could be better? Oh, and the sun is at our backs.
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Here's the first bike. 1X a Honda
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and here's 11X a Kawi (I think)...right on his ass
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As many of you know, Honda owns 'the Baja', and I'm a Honda fan, but that Kawi was within 10 minutes and often just a couple minutes behind at all the checkpoints of the whole course. That was the best race since the 2 Hondas raced in "Dust to Glory".
And a few more bikes. Did you know that red Hondas look orange like a KTM when they're coming at you and change to red when they get beside you. I think its part of the Doppler effect or summat. Strange.
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Here we are waiting for the TTs (Trophy Trucks) Turns out that the TTs had been held up by race protesters who had jackknifed a truck and trailer onto the course in a narrow spot just a few miles off the starting line.
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The race promoters re-organised the start which put the trucks back at least an hour. Sal Fish had to be on his toes through that one. Anyway here's the first truck along about 4PM.
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And another
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and 'Showtime' himself....Robby Gordon
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Notice how the crowd had grown... My van is the upper right most vehicle in the picture. When I parked it up there, there were only a few vehicles over there.
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I calculated when the bikes should be making it back through as they completed the southern loop. I walked the 3/4 miles to that track and waited for the first bike. I wanted to see them on this fast straight section with only 9" mini whoops. I waited and waited...and waited. Finally I gave up and started the walk back. It wasn't 3 minutes later, and here came the helicopter that always follows the first bike. I hated that. :cry:cry
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As the evening fell there were some nice clouds in the sky.
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It was completely dark by 5:30. It was time to get something to eat. I went back to the van and cooked up 2lbs of spaghetti with my homade alcohol stove. I threw a can of Hunts Sause in and a can of Boyardee Spagettios in for good measures.
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That and a couple slices of bread tasted awfully good. A couple of beers would have been a nice addition.
We did have a nice bonfire after dinner, and I made do with my box of wine to get my tongue wagging. I didn't even try to fix my air mat. I just laid out plan B, a roll of foam that I brought just in case.
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Cars came through on the race course all night long till about 4am. They didn't bother us as I, at least, slept till sunrise. We were all alone when we awoke. We stoked up some coffee, and hit the road without any breakfast.
We figured to cross the border first. I got a little lost in Mexicali in the detours. I wanted to exit the new crossing but ended up downtown instead.
Best laid plans and all that. Oh well. Roll with the punches. :freaky
Here's what it like crossing the borders into the USA....a few pics.
Cold drink
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statues/decoration
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She's selling sweets
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Drinks/snacks
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Prints
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Snacks
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Pretty colored balls....who thinks these thing up?
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On, and on, and on...... we still have a 1/2 mile to the border
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The border crossing took us 2 hrs and then some damned detector ratted me out, and I had to go into secondary inspection. I feared the worst. I couldn't Imagine emptying the whole van....what a mess that would be. Mike had gone through right ahead of me. Phone contact said he was waiting at the MacDonalds up the street.
The lady came by and asked us if any of us had any medical scans recently. I'd just had a PET scan where they inject you with some kind of radio active summat that set off their hand held detectors. How about that? All I had to do was drive slowly through a big scanner and the exit. What a relief!
So we all drove over to Stevo's place where Bruce and Ian had loaded the bikes back into their truck for the ride back to Vegas. Ian had made a deal with Tom for one of his NXs to start his oldest son out on. We had to load one of the NXs in with the 2 DRZs.
Then it was time to eat summat, so we went across the street from Steve's house to the park where Westmorland was throwing their Honey Bee Festival.
We loaded up on Bee Festival tacos, and ate them on top of a garbage can.
Does it get any better than this??? Woo hoo!
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After a goodbye to Steve and the boys, we made a beeline to LA up past Salton Sea and Palm Springs. We could see the cloud cover that couldn't get past the mtns into the desert. Note the Moto on the billboard.
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We fought 30 mph headwinds driving through Banning Pass on I-10.
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Another couple hour had me saying goodbye to the 2 Toms in Lakewood. I didn't know when I'd see them again, but we'd had a damned good time on this trip.
I only had 70 more miles to my home in Oceanside. I'd be there by 7pm with no problems. It was a fun week+ on the road, but I was happy to see Dee come to the porch when she heard the old Dodge in the driveway.
